Where the Ring of Kerry meets the Atlantic
Waterville sits on Ballinskelligs Bay, on the western edge of Europe, with the ocean on one side and the mountains and Lough Currane on the other. It's a small, friendly village with a long seafront promenade, a handful of pubs and restaurants, shops for the essentials, and a beach that stretches along the sea. In summer the days are long and the light is wonderful; out of season it's wild, quiet and dramatic.
The village
Walk from the house along the coast road into the village in 15 minutes. The promenade is the heart of the place, a flat, easy stroll with sea views and the well-known statue of Charlie Chaplin, who holidayed here with his family. The Butler Arms Hotel offers lots to choose from in terms of food, or morning coffee and a visit to the well known Fishermans bar is a must. The Villa Maria is a great pub for live music and general craic, with the Lobster bar close by serving food also. In the village you'll find a pharmacy and super market.
The beaches
Waterville Golf Links beach, 5 minute drive from the house. Its a great beach for surfing and wonderful walks particularily when the tide is out.
Waterville beach and promenade, at the village.
Derrynane Beach, 20 minutes by car, in Derrynane National Park. Well worth a visit with plenty of sea sports and activities for the kids. Inquire at Derrynane Sea Sports for kids camps.
Ballinskelligs beach, 15 minutes by car. Theres a market on Sundays and a really nice cafe.
Golf
Waterville Golf Links: Waterville Golf Links is a classic Irish links on the Ring of Kerry, with Ballinskelligs Bay as its backdrop. Golf here goes back to 1889, when a nine-hole course was built for workers at the village’s trans-Atlantic cable station. The links went quiet for a while, then came back in the early 1970s when Irish-born American John Mulcahy hired Eddie Hackett to design the new course. It is a serious test of golf, stretching to well over 7,000 yards through towering dunes, and it regularly features on lists of the best links in Britain and Ireland. A favourite spot is the short 12th, known as “Mass Hole.” It has a natural amphitheatre by the green, said to have been used by Catholics for secret worship in the 17th century. The clubhouse looks out over the course and the bay, which makes it a good place for a drink and a bite after your round.
Hogs Head Golf: Just outside Waterville, Hogs Head is a newer, more dramatic addition to the area. It stands on headlands above the Atlantic, a few kilometres from the Waterville links, and is the first Robert Trent Jones II design in Ireland. The course weaves together the Finglas River, cliff-top holes above Ballinskelligs Bay and views of the village, with a links feel throughout. The relaxed spirit of the place comes through in its motto, “built by friends, for friends, for fun.” The Lodge at Hogs Head, with its cottages, sits on the shores of Lough Currane for anyone who wants to stay on site.
Getting here
Waterville is on the N70 Ring of Kerry route. Approximate driving times:
Killarney - 1 hr 30 min
Kerry Airport - 1 hr 30 min
Cork Airport - 3 hrs
Shannon Airport - 3 hrs
Dublin - 5 hrs
A car is recommended. Public transport in the area is limited, and the best of the coastline is easiest to reach by car or bike.
Day trips by car
Derrynane National Park, the Skellig Ring, Cahersiveen, Portmagee and the Kerry Cliffs, Killarney National Park, the Gap of Dunloe and the Dingle Peninsula, are all within easy reach for a day out.